THE ONLY STREET IN PARIS
Life on the Rue des Martyrs By Elaine Sciolino Illustrated. 294 pp. W.W. Norton & Company. $25.95.
THE ONLY STREET IN PARIS
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sur la jolie cour d’un hôtel particulier du 19e siècle.
☺This charming studio, 30 sqm, is located on the ground floor of a beautiful mansion,
in a secured courtyard.
Très central, les principaux centres d'attraction parisiens sont accessibles facilement :
- à pied, Montmartre à 5 minutes, les grands magasins et l’Opéra à 10 minutes,
- en métro, les Champs Elysées à 10 minutes ou encore le Louvre ou St Michel en bus.
Le métro le plus proche est Anvers (ligne 2) ou Notre Dame de Lorette (ligne 12), le bus est le 85.
Le quartier est très commerçant, notamment la célèbre rue des Martyrs toute proche.
The apartment is conveniently located, making most destinations easy to get to. 5 minutes walk from Montmartre, 10 minutes walk from the Opera and Grands magasins, 10 minutes subway to Champs Elysées or Louvre ; it’s a very central area. Fresh bread, cheeses, wines and fruits available up and down the block.
Nearest metro : Anvers (Line 2) and Notre Dame de Lorette (line 12). Bus : 85
Confortable et propre, il dispose d’un lit double largeur 180 et d’un canapé lit.
Parfait pour un couple ou une famille avec 1 enfant.
Il est composé d'une cuisine équipée, d'un coin repas, un espace salon, un espace chambre avec placard, la salle d’eau avec WC très agréable, parquet au sol, télévision, accès internet wifi etc… Tout ce dont vous aurez besoin est là. Les draps et serviettes de toilette sont fournis.
Le studio et la cour de l'immeuble sont non fumeur.
☺Comfortable and clean apartment with a king size bed in a bedroom area, cupboard, even a lounge area with a sofa bed, kitchen, shower room and toilets. Convenient for couple or family with a kid.
All you need will be there, ready to live in : fully furnished kitchen, nice shower room, wooden floor, TV, internet access with your laptop, bed linens and towels are provided…
The studio and the courtyard are non smoking area.
Contactez nous pour plus d'informations / contact us for more informations
Soyez assurés d'un excellent rapport qualité-prix pour notre location.
Choisissez de vous loger confortablement pour pas cher au coeur de Paris :
365 euros par semaine toutes taxes, linge et ménage inclus.
435 euros par semaine (haute saison) toutes taxes, linge et ménage inclus.
Haute saison = juillet jusqu'à fin août ainsi que les semaines incluant un jour férié et vacances scolaires toutes zones : Pâques,Toussaint, Noël
Le linge inclus serviettes de toilettes, draps, torchons...
Pour de plus longs séjours, nos prix sont encore plus attractifs, contactez nous.
☺How much ?
The lowest price for the best quality :
Price per week in the heart of Paris :
Low season rate 365 euros all included (tourist tax, linens, final cleaning).
High season rate : 435 euros all included (tourist tax, linens, final cleaning).
High season = July till end of August and French holidays's weeks.
You can pay with US$, contact us for the rate of the moment.
To rent for a longer stay, we can offer you a good deal, don't hesit to contact us.
La taxe de séjour/tourist tax (0.83 € par nuitée) est reversée par le bailleur à la Mairie de Paris sous le numéro d'identifiant 8675.
Tourist tax (0.83 € per overnight stay) is paid by the landlord to Paris Town Council.
Règlementation des locations meublées touristiques :
Ce logement entre dans la catégorie location meublée temporaire de la résidence principale du bailleur limitée à 120 jours par an.
- Un excellent rapport qualité prix tout compris au cœur de Paris pour une location meublée
- un accueil chaleureux et sérieux
- un entretien et un nettoyage soigné de l’appartement entre chaque location
- une superficie du studio (30 m2) idéale pour un séjour saisonnier, des vacances touristiques à Paris,
mais aussi pour vos déplacements professionnels,
ou pour les expatriés souhaitant un pied à terre alternatif à l’hôtel…
- situé au coeur de Paris, dans un arrondissement célèbre pour ses théâtres, ses grands magasins,
ses monuments, et tout le charme de Montmartre à quelques minutes de marche,
- le quartier est sûr même tard le soir
- tout autour, vous trouverez des supérettes, de petits commerces, des boulangeries à chaque coin de rue…
- vous y séjournerez en liberté et organiserez vos journées comme bon vous semble
- pour votre confort, un vrai lit (1, 80 m x 2 m) ; et un canapé confortable en couchage annexe
- la cuisine équipée vous permettra de cuisiner dans l’appartement plutôt que d’être contraints à payer le restaurant 3 fois par jour.
- la salle d’eau et sa douche spacieuse vous seront bien agréables
- l’accès wifi gratuit avec votre ordinateur pour vous connecter jour et nuit, la télévision pour rester informés.
Strong points :
Idéalement situé dans Paris
La station de métro la plus proche est Anvers (Ligne 2 Charles de Gaulle-Etoile)
mais nous sommes proches de : Notre Dame de Lorette, St Georges ou Pigalle (ligne12, Concorde Montparnasse Pte Versailles).
Autre station à proximité : Cadet (ligne 7 Louvre Chatelet)
et Bus ligne 85 dans la rue Rodier direction sud pour vous rendre au Louvre ou au Luxembourg. Pour le retour l'arrêt direction nord est situé rue Rochechouart.
Le bus ligne 42 vous mènera directement à la Tour Eiffel depuis l'arrêt Condorcet/rue de Maubeuge, en traversant Paris par les plus beaux quartiers.
Le quartier est très vivant, vous y trouverez des commerces de qualité, des boulangeries à chaque coin de rue, et d'excellents restaurants.
Connu pour ses théâtres et ses grands magasins, le 9e arrondissement est central, beaucoup de monuments et d'activités sont accessibles à pied.
This is a lively Parisian neighborhood. Surrounding the apartment are the traditional boulangeries, cheese shops, grocery stores and many excellent restaurants that Paris is so well-known for.
And of course, lots of monuments and attractions...
The transport to and from the flat is very good with plenty of bus options and underground stations near by.
There is easy access to Metro Anvers (100 meters) and numerous others metro and bus lines. Easy access to Gare du Nord and the Eurostar train to London, Brussels...
The Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysées are just a few metro stops away on the number 2 line. The bus number 85, which can be boarded on a corner just a few meters away, stops at the Louvre, crosses the Seine to Pont Neuf and ends at Luxembourg Gardens, and the bus number 42 direct to Tour Eiffel. Very close too : subway number 12 line, and number 7 line. etc.
A toutes fins utiles, voici un petit inventaire des éléments que vous trouverez dans le studio :
Sel, poivre, thé, café, produit vaisselle, papier toilette... tout ce qui nous a un jour manqué dans une location est prévu ici pour que vous ne manquiez de rien le jour de votre arrivée.
4 oreillers / pillows - 1 couette 220x240 / duvet. 1 couette petit format / small duvet
Parure drap-housse et couette lit 140 et draps pour canapé lit/sheets for the bed and for the sofa
Un assortiment de serviettes de toilette/towels et de torchons/dish towels
Cuisine - Kitchen :
Réfrigérateur /fridge - Plaques de cuisson / hob - Mini four / small oven - Micro ondes /micro wave - Lave Linge 3 kgs / 3kg washing machine - Bouilloire /kettle - Cafetière électrique/coffee pot
TV écran plat 66 cms mural, décodeur Wifi et téléphone / TV on the wall, digital decoder and phone - 1 CD player
Sèche cheveux / hair dryer – Pèse personne / Bathroom scales
Fer et table à repasser /iron and iron board
For years, most Parisians really only saw the 9th arrondissement as the place to go if they wanted to shop at Galeries Lafayette, buy an antique at the Hôtel Drouot or attend the Opéra National de Paris. The rest of the quartier, especially south of Pigalle, was largely overlooked, even snubbed. A decade ago, it was hard to imagine that the 9th bore witness to one of France’s greatest art scenes and, for over half a century, was perhaps Paris’s most fashionable quartier.
Today, thanks to an infusion of ‘bobos’, entrepreneurs and chefs, the area to the south of Pigalle and Sacré-Coeur, which was home to some of the most famous artists of the 19th-century ‘romantic’ era, is on the rise. The media has dubbed the area ‘SoPi’.
“We used to call this neighbourhood ‘la Nouvelle Athènes’,” says Catherine Sorel, spokesperson for the area’s musée de la Vie romantique (16 rue Chaptal). “Today it’s very trendy to talk about ‘South Pigalle’, as we’ve seen the opening of concept stores, boutiques by young designers, bistros and hip restaurants. There’s a resurgence of interest in the 19th century and the history of La Nouvelle Athènes.”
After years in the shadows, the spotlight is again shining on these storied streets. And as ‘South Pigalle’ has come to represent all that is hip anddernier cri in Paris, the area’s rich past as La Nouvelle Athènes is also being rediscovered. Today, south of Pigalle, all that’s old is new again.
One herald of this transformation came in 2006, with the opening of Hôtel Amour (8 rue Navarin) by a pair of famous restaurant entrepreneurs, the Costes brothers, and the creators of the Paris nightclub Le Baron. The wildly successful hotel, a former maison close (brothel) near the old Pigalle cabarets, embraced the area’s racy 20th-century reputation. At the time, opening the pricey boutique hotel seemed as risqué as it did risky. Less than a decade on, the area’s first five-star luxury hotel, the Maison Souquet(10 rue de Bruxelles), has just opened in a former “Belle Époque pleasure house”.
“There’s a strong sense of identity here, people like to trumpet the fact that they’re from the 9th, that they’re from SoPi,” says Steve Sérèmes of Mesdemoiselles Madeleines (37 rue des Martyrs). “We’re very much in France, but people are also very aware of global trends. There’s this fashion in SoPi to borrow from what’s happening in New York and around the world.”
Cocktail Bars have popped up with names like Pigalle Country Club (59 rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle), a nod to the Buschwick Country Club in Brooklyn. When residents don’t refer to the neighbourhood as ‘SoPi,’ many call it ‘South [pronounced sows] Pigalle’. The owners of the hip concept store L’Oeuf (9 rue Clauzel) even trademarked a South Pigalle line of streetwear in 2008. Buvette, (28 rue Henry Monnier), one of the area’s hippest restaurants, serves revisited French bistro classics and boasts Brooklyn-esque décor. It was opened by American chef Jody Williams and modelled after her Greenwich Village restaurant.
This willingness to update something as sacrosanct as French gastronomy is shared by many of those who have put SoPi on the map. Les Commis (51 avenue Trudaine), which opened in 2012 just off the picturesque Rue des Martyrs, creates gourmet ‘meal kits’ of fabulously fresh products.
“There’s a clientele here who have a certain spending power, are very educated in culinary terms and are open to new ideas,” says founder Clément Chanéac. “It’s often used as a kind of a ‘test neighbourhood’, to try out new concepts in gastronomy.”
Food concept trendsetters abound on the Rue des Martyrs, such as Café Marlette (No 51), a café-boutique with a popular terrasse that’s dedicated to gluten-free breads and pastries. This past year, Steve Sérèmes opened Mesdemoiselles Madeleines, dedicated to France’s famous shell-shaped sponge cake, where the sweet and savoury recipes change seasonally.
“The Madeleine is emblematic of France,” he says Sérèmes. “I didn’t invent anything, I just updated it.”
So numerous are these single-product shops that French food critics are calling Rue des Martyrs “La Rue du Monoproduit”. The ‘rock ’n’ roll ice-cream shop’ Glazed (No 54) offers such combinations as Campari, balsamic vinegar and orange sorbet, while Popelini (No 44) has updated thechoux à la crèmewith flavours like apricot & rosemary. La Chambre aux Confitures (No 9), a dazzling shrine to gourmet jams which opened in 2011, arguably launched the street’s sweet-toothed, food concept boutique trend.
“The Rue des Martyrs has become a crossing point between the Grands Magasins district and Sacré-Coeur,” says founder Lise Bienaimé. “Tourists come here for a gastronomic tour.”
Another SoPi street to take a decidedly gastronomic turn is the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, especially since the 2011 opening of Causses (No 55), an example of a new breed of delicatessen, selling fresh vegetables, meats and cheeses and gourmet dry goods. Walking up the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette from the Place Saint-Georges, with its iconic statue, theatre and bustling brasserie terrasse, one soon comes upon L’Affineur Affiné (51 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette). Created by an innovative young couple, this welcome twist on the traditional fromagerie offers an array of perfectly-aged wares which can be purchased to-go or enjoyed in their tasting room / restaurant. Across the street, En Vrac (No 48) opened this year, introducing bulk fine wine sales as an ecological, low carbon footprint alternative to estate-bottled varieties.
Continuing past Causses, the Rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette becomes the Rue Chaptal, where another revolution is taking place. The Musée de la Vie Romantique and its secluded garden teahouse have long ranked among Paris’s best-kept secrets, but no more.
“We’re seeing a whole new population coming to the museum,” says spokesperson Catherine Sorel. “There’s almost a kind of neo-dandyism– it’s fashionable to be interested in the 19th century and these artists.”
The Musée was originally the home of painter Ary Scheffer, a prominent artist whose Friday-evening salons drew the crème of Nouvelle Athènes’ intellectual and artistic society, including George Sand, Chopin, Delacroix, Ingres, Lamartine, Liszt and Rossini. The building was constructed in 1830, during a three-decade boom which saw the entire neighbourhood created. In part, the nickname of La Nouvelle Athènes referred to the architectural style employed, which drew heavily on motifs from antiquity.
“People found a new art de vivre here, totally different from Paris, which had become terribly dirty and suffocating,” says Fabien Leborgne, who leads the Musée’s Nouvelle Athènes ‘street tour’. “During a very short period, artists flooded Nouvelle Athènes, looking to create ateliers.”
By 1870, the area boasted 180 artist ateliers. Today, numerous buildings bear the names of such past residents as Renoir, Van Gogh and Gaugin, and large, north-facing rooftop windows still dot the neighbourhood’s rooftops.
Among the few period ateliers open to the public is that of Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau, who André Breton hailed as the forerunner to Surrealism. The recently renovated Musée Gustave Moreau (14 rue de La Rochefoucauld) boasts a magnificent staircase and an entirely new floor featuring more of the master’s artwork.
A new artistic hub seems to be emerging around these museums as three galleries dealing in 19th-century art have opened in recent years.
“The 19th century was one of the most rich in terms of movements in painting,” says Virginie Botte of Galerie Johann Naldi (33 rue Chaptal), “so we’re not competitors, we complement each other.”
Galerie Johann Naldi focuses on Romanticism and Fin-de-Siècle, Galerie La Nouvelle Athènes (22 rue Chaptal) is dedicated to Romanticism and Classicism, while Galerie Chaptal (No 7) offers drawings, late 19th-century Symbolism and École Allemande. The three galleries are constantly collaborating and will mount simultaneous exhibitions to coincide with the Musée de la Vie Romantique’s next show, Visages de l’Effroi, which opened on November 3.
“We want to recreate a little cultural hub,” says Botte, “to give a new dynamic to Nouvelle Athènes.”
So what do these gallery owners share with the area’s new grocers, wine vendors and food entrepreneurs?
“We’re making something new with something old,” says Sérèmes of Mesdemoiselles Madeleines, “using the neighbourhood and its history as a springboard.”
Auguste Rodin said, “Je n’invente rien, je redécouvre.” (“I invent nothing, I rediscover.”), but SoPi unquestionably proves that, through investigating its past, Paris is reinventing itself.
BOUTIQUES, GALLERIES & RESTAURANTS
Causses, 55 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Tel: +33 1 53 16 10 10
Imagine if the delights of a Paris street market– raw milk cheeses and butter, meats and charcuterie, impeccable fruits and vegetables, fresh-baked breads – could be found in one shop, alongside craft beers and wine, and a deli overflowing with nuts, olives, spices and oils. Causses is a grocery shop unlike any in France.
En Vrac, 48 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Tel: +33 1 44 63 06 01
To create this next-generation, eco-conscious wine and spirit shop, Thierry Poncin revived a long neglected approach – selling it ‘in bulk’. Huge vessels of eau-de-vie line the walls and aluminium tanks of vin are perched atop roughly-hewn logs, allowing clients fill their bottles with wines and spirits from small producers from across France.
Galerie La Nouvelle Athènes, 22 rue Chaptal, Tel: +33 1 75 57 11 42
A new generation of gallery owners is determined to see the area now known as SoPi recognised as a mecca for lovers of 19th-century art. At Galerie La Nouvelle Athènes, works by famous and forgotten masters of the Neoclassical and Romantic periods fill a charming space which evokes an 1830s salon.
L’Oeuf– South Pigalle, 9 rue Clauzel, Tel: +33 1 40 16 41 39
In recent years, some of Paris’s most fashionable boutiques have emerged around the Rue des Martyrs, and L’Oeuf’s three stores on the Rue Clauzel are exemplars. Creator of the ‘South Pigalle’ brand, L’Oeuf is adored by the trend-conscious for their chic street wear and shoes, plus the collections of furniture and decorative art.
Mesdemoiselles Madeleines, 37 rue des Martyrs, Tel: +33 1 53 16 28 82
The Rue des Martyrs’ most recent food concept store has dared update the most emblematic of French cakes, namely Proust’s beloved Madeleine. The tiny, shell-shaped sponge cake is seasonally re-imagined in multiple sweet and savoury versions, such as raspberry and rose, fennel and blackcurrant, and lemon basil, feta and pine nut.
La Chambre aux Confitures, 9 rue des Martyrs, Tel: +33 1 71 73 43 77
Founder Lise Bienaimé has put a fresh face on French confiture with recipes so good (apricot and lavender, raspberry with Champagne) that their uses hardly end at breakfast. ‘Orange Exotique’ marries brilliantly with sesame-breaded shrimp, while ‘Fleur de Géranium’ creates a divine cocktail when mixed with lime, vodka and Perrier.
From France Today magazine - Jeffrey T Iverson.
NEW YORK TIMES Dining & Wine Published: November 5, 2012
FOR me, the Rue des Martyrs is the last real street in Paris.
It is here that I find artichokes so young they can be eaten raw, a Côtes du Rhône so smooth it could be a fine burgundy, and a cow cheese so creamy it’s best eaten with a spoon.
I take my cues from the late, great Julia Child. “The Parisian grocers insisted that I interact with them personally,” Julia wrote in her 2006 autobiography, “My Life in France.” “If I wasn’t willing to take the time to get to know them and their wares, then I would not go home with the freshest legumes or cuts of meat in my basket. They certainly made me work for my supper.”
So I interact. I work for my supper. Sometimes I even pretend to be Julia, with her American-accented French. I caress tomatoes, inspect lamb loins, sniff Camembert, sample wild boar charcuterie and go all wobbly over sugarcoated brioche. No one except my children makes fun of me.
I have been embraced as a member of the neighborhood “family,” as the merchants call the bas (lower) Rue des Martyrs. They know — and seem to like — one another. When I needed a stool small enough to fit into a shower after my older daughter injured her leg, the manager of the variety store borrowed one for me from the nearby jeweler. When Fahmi Hamrouni, a greengrocer at the Petit Jardin (No. 3), ran out of flat green beans one day, he grabbed handfuls for me from the greengrocer across the street.
The feeling of intimacy is enhanced on Sunday mornings, when several blocks of the street moving up from the Notre Dame de Lorette Church in the Ninth Arrondissement are closed off to traffic.
The “family” designation comes with privileges but also a code of conduct: smile and say “bonjour” to every merchant you pass, ideally stop in for a chat. It can take 30 minutes to walk a few hundred feet.
So the neighbors were thunderstruck Oct. 16 when the Poissonnerie Bleue, the street’s fish market (No. 5), with no advance warning, posted a dire message on its chalkboard: “The fish store will close for good on October 31, 2012. Thank you. The Management.”
Apparently there had been a longstanding dispute between Marc Briolay, the 53-year-old owner, and the landlord over who was responsible for repairs. The Briolays stopped paying rent; the landlord ordered them to leave.
The fish store had been in business for more than a half-century. Mr. Briolay started working there as a teenager in 1978 and built it into a family-run operation. Tomàs, his 22-year-old son, cleaned and filleted the fish. Justine, his 23-year-old daughter, who had worked there since she was 12, sold the merchandise. Marc and his wife, Évelyne, rented the apartment upstairs.
The shop employed other full-time and part-time workers, including Joël Vicogne, 50, who started working there when he was 16 and happened to be the son of the landlord (who once ran the shop with his uncle).
No matter how busy the shop was, how long the line stretched onto the sidewalk, there was time to talk about fish. I learned, for example, that an ugly-faced pink-orange, firm-fleshed fish called sebaste (a variety of ocean perch) is excellent when stuffed with shallots or fennel and baked whole, that cod works well with pesto, that red mullet is not too delicate to fillet and sauté.
Justine told me how to make linguine with shrimp, fish quenelles and beurre blanc with white wine and shallots. Marc, who manned the cash register, always threw a lemon and a bunch of parsley into my bag and shaved two or three euros off the bill.
Jacques Bravo, the mayor of the Ninth Arrondissement, struggled to prevent the inevitable. He turned up on the Rue des Martyrs in a pinstriped suit, gray cashmere scarf and Legion of Honor pin one Sunday morning after the announcement of the closing, shook a lot of hands and promised to help save the day.
To no avail. Mr. Briolay had closed his shop for the last time — three days early.
The burden of history intensified the suffering.
The street got its name from the martyrdom of St. Denis, the first bishop of Paris, in the third century. Legend has it that St. Denis was decapitated on what is now the Rue Yvonne Le Tac at the top of the Rue des Martyrs for preaching the Christian Gospel. He picked up his head, washed it off and carried it five miles to the north before dying.
By the 18th century, the half-mile street had become the physical spine of the neighborhood; by the 19th, a center of commerce.
The bas (lower) part, which is older, was — and still is — considered the real street. Many of its shops are related to the bouche (mouth), meaning they’re food shops.
The bas Rue des Martyrs prides itself on its permanence. The Boucherie Billebault, a thriving butcher shop, at No. 3, has been operated by the same family since 1899. The brasserie at the corner of the Rue Lamartine (No. 2) dates back more than a century. A hardware store has been at No. 1 since 1842. A pharmacy at No. 4 was mentioned in city archives as early as 1848.
When Mr. Briolay announced his departure, the personnel at the bakery at No. 10 (a bakery has been there since 1868) drafted a handwritten petition demanding that only another fish store be allowed in the space; 200 signatures were collected and sent to City Hall.
“It’s a scandal,” said Valérie Levin, who runs the bakery with her husband. “We don’t need another cheese shop, or butcher or bakery on our end of the street. We need diversity to stay alive. Without a fish store, the street is dead.”
Ezzdine Ben Abdollah, a greengrocer nearby, said: “It’s hard work, but there’s money in fish. If I knew fish, I’d take the place myself.”
I made the point to various merchants that there’s another fish store several blocks up the street toward Montmartre. Kevin Losbar, the 26-year-old manager, runs a perfectly respectable, if much smaller fish store.
But that fish store is on the other side of the unofficial dividing line at the Rue Manuel, where the incline up the hill en route to Montmartre becomes steeper. This is the beginning of the haut (high) Rue des Martyrs, infested with real estate agencies, clothing stores and upscale boutiques eager to invade south.
An American-style cupcake and cookie shop recently moved in. So did a Subway sandwich shop and a cafe that features Sunday brunch and smoothies. The bas merchants consider the upper part an enclave of transients and arrivistes.
“It’s too far away,” said Yves Chataigner, who runs a cheese store with his wife, Annick, at No. 3 on the bas Rue des Martyrs. “It could be New York.”
Thus far, there have been no takers for the fish store, according to Mr. Bravo. It will not be Mr. Vicogne, who has no intention of taking over the lease. “Fish is too tough,” he said. “You have to be at the wholesale market at 2, 3 in the morning. You have to be on your feet in rubber boots eight hours a day. You don’t get enough vacation.”
Paradoxically, the drastic gentrification of the Rue des Martyrs and the surrounding streets (real estate agents call the neighborhood Village Martyrs) in the last two decades has hurt traditional merchants. Young, upwardly mobile two-income couples with little time to cook have moved in; many older residents have moved out.
So have some of the merchants. There had been a charcuterie at No. 6 rue des Martyrs since 1849; when it moved out last year, a store specializing in prepared rotisserie chickens and sides replaced it.
A year before that, a sliver of a newspaper kiosk was turned almost overnight into an A.T.M.
Mr. Bravo is determined. He has sent out an all-points bulletin to his fellow mayors in the 19 other arrondissements asking if they know of a motivated fishmonger. After all, France’s National Confederation of Fishmongers and Oyster Openers has started a training program in which 85 students are enrolled.
“It’s extremely difficult to find someone to take over a big space like this,” he said. “It’s much easier to sell fish at outdoor markets. But I’m an old marathon runner. I did New York eight times. I’m in this for the long run. We only need to find one.”
But folks on the street are skeptical that the city will enforce regulations that require artisanal shops in certain zones to be replaced by similar businesses and keep the fish store closed until another fishmonger can be found.
They point out the fate of the street’s independently owned florist shop last year. Even though the space was restricted for an “artisanal” business, Kiehl’s, the American beauty products chain, got around the restriction and moved in. It installed two barber’s chairs and called itself an artisan.
NEW YORK TIMES Published: December 2, 2015
The only street in Paris, rue des Martyrs
Elaine Sciolino, a former Paris bureau chief for The New York Times, has lived in that city long enough to know it’s not only the Gothic spires of Notre Dame or the opalescent gray light known as grisaille that makes the city unique. Paris is beautiful; the food is delicious, the shoe shopping world class. But it’s the people who make Paris Paris. And in her latest book, Sciolino celebrates this idea, bringing her favorite street to life through the stories and histories of its residents and merchants.
“The Rue des Martyrs does not belong to monumental Paris,” she writes in “The Only Street in Paris.” Indeed, this narrow, working-class street is a different kind of French landmark, one that was spared in Baron Haussmann’s sweeping renovation of the city when smaller, labyrinthine neighborhoods were bulldozed to make way for broad boulevards. Anyone who loves Paris’s remaining quirky “villages” will revel in Sciolino’s meticulously reported accounts of the characters who work and live on the half-mile-long street.
As Sciolino sets out to recount their stories, heading north from the church of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette toward Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre, she meets a tweedy octogenarian, a self-proclaimed local guide and historian who cajoles her into giving a crowd of strangers access to her building, “one of the most beautiful bourgeois houses of the neighborhood.” As they marvel at the oval staircase with its rosewood banister, he recites a long list of famous former inhabitants, including the mid-19th-century portrait photographer Nadar and, possibly, Jules Verne. Another neighborly history buff informs her that the street was a swamp in the Middle Ages and that François Truffaut filmed “The 400 Blows” here (and lived nearby). The list of famous residents or habitués reads like a Who’s Who of French culture. Delacroix, Renoir, Cézanne, Van Gogh and Géricault all paid regular visits to the neighborhood. Edith Piaf even makes an appearance as an unknown waif, singing to residents as they toss coins from their windows.
But the locals are the real stars of the Rue des Martyrs: political activists, former teachers, a flamboyant cabaret owner, an irreverent wood gilder with a penchant for antique barometers. We understand, from their memories and their stories, how Parisians easily live the past in the present and how they struggle to maintain their villages. Some, like Jacques Bravo, the mayor of the Ninth Arrondissement, win and manage to keep the big chain stores at bay. But others, like the sad fishmonger Marc Briolay, who knows each client’s name and preferences, can’t keep their businesses afloat.
Another local character, a 19th-century medium who summoned from the dead everyone from Homer to Benjamin Franklin, inspires Sciolino to summon a few of her own ghosts, including that of her father, “Tony the food king,” a Sicilian-American grocer who taught her that food was an easy way to connect with people.
Perhaps the bigger ghost haunting Sciolino in this book is Louis-Sébastien Mercier, a street reporter from another century who spent his days recording people’s habits and customs for his “Tableau de Paris,” an ill-fated 12-volume collection published on the eve of the revolution. Sciolino confesses to a “complicated” relationship with Mercier, who was the subject of a doctoral dissertation she once hoped to complete. This volume could be considered her second attempt — decidedly shorter, but no less rigorous in its encyclopedic range.
As if to caution a fact-bound journalist, one bookseller tucked into a narrow shop at the top of the street rails against “too many anecdotes — it means the author lacks inspiration. . . . There is no poetry.” Sciolino doesn’t lack for inspiration; she has Paris at her feet. Her facts are intriguing and skillfully woven together, but perhaps in their tight weave the author misses a looser, sensory feeling of Paris, a city defined as much by its superficial smells and sounds and visual dichotomies as it is by its deep and often dark history.
At the end of this Parisian tableau, Sciolino assembles her cast of characters for a celebratory potluck party. They turn up bearing gifts of sparkling wine, terrines and salted caramels. In honor of Sciolino’s Sicilian heritage, the crowd sings Neapolitan love songs and a rousing rendition of “La Vie en Rose.” That’s when the author has her “aha!” moment: Here, in the heart of the working-class city, Parisian codes don’t matter; it’s authenticity that counts. That’s what makes Paris Paris.
THE ONLY STREET IN PARIS
Life on the Rue des Martyrs By Elaine Sciolino Illustrated. 294 pp. W.W. Norton & Company. $25.95.
Paris is the city of lights, the city of love, and a breathtaking destination to visit. There’s no way to see all that’s worth seeing in a short amount of time, but there are a few highlights to enjoy.
Notre Dame: Whether you’re Catholic or not, Notre Dame is a necessary stop on your trip to Paris. Even if you only stop to admire the exterior, it’s an indescribable experience. Seeing one of the most famous churches with its fascinating architecture and mesmerizing stain glass windows is an absolutely awe striking experience. If you happen to be Catholic, visiting Notre Dame is that much more inspiring. The building itself seems to hold a sacred power that makes prayer that much more meaningful inside the church. As for timing, the line may be long but it often goes quickly. However, it’s easy to lose hours inside the church if you aren’t paying attention to the time.
While you’re at Notre Dame, don’t forget to step on point zero: the absolute center of Paris. By stepping on that spot, you’re promising a return to the city of lights.
Les Bouquinistes: After leaving Notre Dame, enjoy the quaint bouquinistes alongside the Seine. These are vendor stands that sell anything from tiny Eiffel Towers to hundred year old books. The stands are full of intriguing items. You can spend your afternoon searching through all of the stands or simply browse as you walk by.
La Seine: If it’s at all possible, take a boat tour of Paris. The city is a completely different place along the path of the Seine. Every bridge you’ll pass is absolutely stunning. If you happen to be going with a significant other, be sure to bring a lock. Along the Seine, you’ll find a variety of bridges latched with locks. They say that, by putting a lock on the bridge, you’ll have a lasting relationship.
The art museums: No matter how long you’re in Paris, you have to go to the Louvre. You can lose weeks in the museum, but you can also do the quick tour by seeing the necessities: the pyramid in the lobby, the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the building itself. Besides the Louvre, there’s the Musée d’Orsay which houses impressionist artwork such as Monet, Manet, Degas, and other famous impressionists. There’s also the Centre Pompidou which is completely modern art. If you have the opportunity, the art museums are a good way to spend an afternoon.
Les Champs Élysées: There is so much to explore on the famous street. First, you have to see l’Arc de Triomphe and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Once you’ve covered the basics, this is where you should do your shopping. You’ll find every high class fashion store you can imagine including Louis Vuitton. Even if fashion isn’t your thing, Louis Vuitton is an interesting store that can only be explained through experience.
The food: If you’ve never experienced French food before, there are a few ordinary things that you have to try at some point. There’s the Croque Monsieur or the Croque Madame, both of which are basically glorified ham and cheese sandwiches. Of course, there are the crepes. And then there are the deserts; try any and all of the deserts you can. Finally, if you have the opportunity, go to a café and order an espresso. Take a break and watch the world of Paris flutter by. Honestly, this is the best way you can get acquainted with the foreign city.
The Eiffel Tower: No matter where you go in the city, this structure will be towering over you. It’s surreal and beautiful and the biggest reminder that you’re in Paris. If you’re in Paris at night, seeing the tower lit up will stun you. That’s not even the best part, every hour, on the hour, for five minutes the lights sparkle. It doesn’t sound like much, but when you’re in the presence of the towering beauty, you will be at an absolute loss for words.
Overall, Paris is too big to be completely comprehended in a short time, but it’s far from impossible to fall in love with the city after more than a few seconds on its magical streets. To enjoy the time you have in the city, don’t plan every second; take some time to get lost and acquainted with the city. There is so much to do and see, but the best part about Paris is being in the presence of such an inspiring city where so many great humans were before.
Tout près à pied, nearby, by walk :
SACRE COEUR - MONTMARTRE - PLACE DU TERTRE
Au square d'Anvers, la vue sur la Basilique du Sacré Coeur est superbe.
Remontez par la rue de Steinkerque et ses boutiques vers la Butte Montmartre.
Funiculaire ou escaliers à travers les jardins.
Vous voilà au Sacré coeur, et les incontournables lieux montmartrois : la Place du Tertre, les vignes, le Moulin de la Galette, la place des Abesses…
Montmartre is a must-see in Paris :
The Place du Tertre is the heart and soul of Montmartre.
The Sacre-Coeur (The Sacred Heart Basilica), white, Romano-Byzantine church.
Le Moulin Rouge et Pigalle, quartier animé et lumineux le soir : bars, restaurants, boutiques de souvenirs…
Pigalle is a popular nightlife area, not particularly sinister or dangerous, day or night
Marché aux tissus pour les amateurs de couture (Place St Pierre, à droite des escaliers en bas du Sacré Coeur). If you're interested in textile, on the bottom of Montmartre hill, on the right, Place St Pierre.
Marché de Barbès (mercredi matin et samedi matin sous la ligne de métro station Barbès-Rochechouart), coloré, exotique, le moins cher de Paris (fruits légumes et poissons, bazar…).
The cheaper market in Paris : Wednesday and Saturday morning. Barbès-RochechouartStation
Musée de la Vie Romantique (16 rue Chaptal) Museum about the Romantic Movement in the 19th century
9E ARRDT OPERA, QUARTIER DES GRANDS MAGASINS (department stores)
Les passages couverts du 9e – 2e arrdts (Passage Verdeau, Passage des panoramas, Galerie Vivienne etc… rejoingnent le Palais Royal. L'architecture originale et le charme d'autrefois de ces passages vous charmeront.
Paris is full of galleries and covered passages. These walkways like pedestrianized little streets host a number of shops, businesses, antique shops and restaurants according to location.
L'hôtel Drouot et ses célèbres enchères-Auctioning - 9 rue Drouot Paris 9e
L'accès libre (le calendrier des ventes et les photos d'exposition des ventes à venir sont accessibles sur le site http://www.drouot.com)
Musée Grévin http://www.grevin.com/ , MadameTussauds Paris
L’Opéra Garnier (style Napoléon III). Si votre emploi du temps le permet, assistez à un spectacle. The best way to visit the Opera Garnier is to attend a performance.
L’Eglise (19e siècle) et la Place de la Madeleine (et ses épiceries fines comme Fauchon, Hédiard…).
The Place de la Madeleine’s area is well-known for its gourmet quality food shops.
La Place Vendôme dont la colonne central a été crée avec les canons de l’armée ennemie, battue par Napoléon à Austerlitz. Tout autour, le Ritz et les vitrines des plus célèbres joailliers.
The Column of the Place Vendôme was made with enemy cannons taken at the battle of Austerlitz in 1805. (one of Napoleon's most celebrated victories). Around the place, jewelers and the famous Ritz Hotel.
Grands magasins-Department stores - Boulevard Haussmann (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Fnac St Lazare, Surcouf…).
Shopping areas of the Grands Boulevards (Department stores Printemps, Galeries Lafayette)
Pas très loin en métro : just a few metro stops away
Faites votre choix, vous n'aurez PEUT-être pas le temps de tout voir en un seul sejour !
ETOILE, champs elysées
Métro ligne 2 ou 12. La plus belle avenue du monde, l’Arc de Triomphe et sa vue imprenable sur les 12 avenues de la Place de l’Etoile, la Défense et Paris. Au pied du monument, la tombe du soldat inconnu commémore tous les soldats qui ont combattu pour la liberté.
The name Champs Elysées can be translate : the Avenue of the Elysian Fields ; in the Greek Mythology, the Elysium was a paradise and resting place for heroes. The Arc de Triomphe is one of the most memorable sights in Paris. At the base of the monument, a memorial to the "Unknown Soldier" from World War I (a soldier's body of unknown identity is entombed). An eternal flame commemorating all soldiers who have died fighting for freedom.
PLACE DE LA concorde Une place somptueuse où trône le célèbre obélisque issu du Temple de Louxor en Egypte. The Place de la Concorde separates the Tuileries Gardens from the Champs Elysées. At the center, the Obelisk came from the Egyptian temple at Luxor.
LE LOUVRE et les tuileries, mUSEE D'orsay - Bus ligne 85 arrêt rue Rodier. Louvre is the home of Mona Lisa and Venus of Milo. Musee d'Orsay has a great impressionist collection.
tour eiffel, trocadéro, LA SEINE Bus ligne 42 (angle rue Condorcet-rue de Maubeuge).
Non loin de la Tour Eiffel, embarquez sur les bateaux mouche. Au surplus de son illumination et du phare d’une portée de 80 kms, chaque soir (de la tombée de la nuit à 1h du matin), à l’heure pile et durant 5 minutes, la Tour Eiffel scintille de mille feux.
Du Trocadéro, vous aurez une vue imprenable sur la tour, en profitant des jardins. Vous pourrez aussi y visiter le Musée de la Marine ou la Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine.
At night, after dinner, a cruise down the Seine will be a romantic choice.
CaTHEDRALE NOTRE DAME – L’ILE DE LA CITE Chef d’oeuvre de l’art gothique. Visite de la cathédrale gratuite, accès aux tours (422 marches sans ascenseur) pour 8 euros plein tarif gratuit pour les moins de 18 ans.
Climbing the 422 steps to the top of this masterpiece is well worth the effort for the spectacular view. Go early in the day to avoid crowds and see the sunrise. Admission: cathedral is free, towers around 8 €.
Sur l’île de la Cité : Le Palais de Justice, le 36 Quai des Orfèvres, la Sainte Chapelle, la Conciergerie, les berges de la Seine et leurs bouquinistes, le Pont Neuf (qui est en fait le plus ancien pont de Paris)…
The city islands : the gothic Sainte Chapelle built in 13th century, the Conciergerie (reconstitution of Marie-Antoinette’s prison, the law-courts of Paris, and the New Bridge which is the oldest of Paris !
BEAUBOURG ET LE FORUM DES HALLES Beaubourg (centre Georges Pompidou Musée d'art moderne) - Beaubourg Centre Georges Pompidou : the building featuring colourful exposed pipes is the National Museum Of Modern Art, and a cultural center.
Plus de 50 000 œuvres sur un parcours chronologique. Les couleurs des tuyaux sont codées : les bleus véhiculent l’air et les vertes les fluides, dans les jaunes : les gaines électriques et dans les rouges : les ascenseurs
Pour le shopping branché, filez vers le quartier des Halles ou la rue de Rivoli (le sous sol du BHV – Bazar de l’hôtel de ville est une caverne d’Ali Baba pour les bricoleurs).
LE MARAIS ET LA PLACE DES VOSGES Métro St Paul
Un des quartiers les plus préservés offrant de nombreux témoignages d’un passé historique très riche : hôtels particuliers (avec parfois leurs décors), jardins, édifices religieux, etc.
Place des Vosges, au numéro 6, siège le somptueux hôtel de Rohan-Guémené (1605) abrite la Maison de Victor Hugo, appartement au 2ème étage où vécut le grand écrivain de 1832 à 1848. The Marais is the most beautifully preserved quarter of the city. Discover medievial houses, atmospheric old streets, beautiful classical architecture, two lovely churches, the antique shops in the village St Paul, and the place des Vosges, Paris’s oldest square
La colonne de juillet, l’Opéra Bastille et dans les rues adjacentes, des bars et une ambiance branchée.
ST GERMAIN DES PRES - LE QUARTIER LATIN Le boul’Mich (boulevard St Michel) - La Sorbonne - Quartier Latin – Panthéon - Arènes de Lutèce - le Jardin des Plantes - le Muséum d’histoire naturelle – La Grande galerie de l’Evolution - la ménagerie…
L’Institut du Monde Arabe, la Mosquée de Paris - et la célèbre rue Mouffetard (M° Censier ou Gobelins)
LA VILLETTE Le Paris futuriste
La Cité des Sciences http://www.cite-sciences.fr/ Métro : Corentin-Cariou ou Porte de Pantin. Cinaxe, le Parc, le sous marin L’Argonaute… La Géode écran géant de cinéma, immense hémisphère de 1 000 m2.
LE CANAL ST MARTIN Commencez par la visite du Parc des Buttes Chaumont et redescendez vers le bassin de la Villette, puis le canal St Martin où vous retrouverez toute l’atmosphère d’Arletty et de l’hôtel du Nord. Pour terminer, la place de la République. Le charme rétro du canal Saint-Martin et du bassin de la Villette est à découvrir au bonheur de longues promenades pédestres, excursions fluviales ou pique-niques sur les berges pavées. Ponts mobiles, passerelles métalliques, rives aménagées, espaces plantés, péniches, écluses, pêcheurs, cafés en vogue avec terrasses et boutiques
Hors des sentiers battus : unusual
Les puces de st ouen ouvert : Sam. dim. lundi toute l’année www.st-ouen-tourisme.com
M° ligne 4 Station Porte de Clignancourt ou Bus 85
Huge Flea Market (Saturday, Sunday, Monday only)
LA DEFENSE Centre d’affaires - Business district - Métro Ligne 1 Station "Grande Arche de La Défense" ou RER Ligne A
La Grande Arche. Les 4 temps (l’un des plus grands centre commerciaux d’Europe) – shopping center
LES CATACOMBES DE PARIS M° Denfert Rochereau
L’ossuaire de Paris Parcours de 2 kms, 45 minutes, 130 marches à descendre, 83 marches à remonter Température 14° - Catacombs.
LE CIMETIERE DU père LACHAISE Le cimetière le plus visité au monde ! De nombreuses personnalités y sont enterrées : la tombe de Jim Morrisson des Doors est veillée constamment par des fans. Molière, Edith Piaf et tant d’autres y reposent éternellement…M° Philippe Auguste ligne 2 ou Gambetta ligne 3 (pour débuter par la tombe d’Oscar Wilde)
The most visited cemetery in the world. M° Philippe Auguste line 2 or M° Gambetta station on line 3 to enter near the tomb of Oscar Wilde and then walk downhill to visit the rest of the cemetery.
LES COURSES A LONGCHAMPS, AUTEUIL ou vincennes -Racecourse Se renseigner sur le calendrier.
Vous y trouverez commerces locaux, restaurants, et ambiance...
Indien: 10e arrdt M° Château d’eau – Passage Brady
Chinois: 13e arrdt Av. d’Italie et d’Ivry, 20e rue de Belleville
Japonais: 2e rue Ste Anne (quartier Opéra et Palais Royal)
Africain: 18e Goutte d’Or, rue Doudeauville M° Barbès/ Château rouge
Plus ou moins une heure de Paris –more or less an hour from Paris
CROISIERE SUR LA MARNE ET GUINGUETTES
Rendez vous du côté de Nogent (sur Marne),
Joinville le Pont Pont Pont… pour le petit vin blanc…
Y aller seul ou avec Canauxrama (journées croisière et déjeuner)
Dance hall-restaurants along the Marne have been in existence since the 18th century, immortalized by Renoir in his paintings You can reach the “Guinguette” on the RER train to Champigny or by car, also Canauxrama cruises
Le plus magnifique des châteaux royaux. En train: depuis la Gare St Lazare ou Montparnasse
En RER : Ligne C
PROVINS VILLE MEDIEVALE
Inscrite au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco
En train : depuis la Gare de l’Est
En bus : Excursion Paris Vision
Château, parc et jardins et musée vivant du cheval
en train: depuis la Gare du Nord (25 minutes)
En RER : Ligne D (45 minutes)
Château, parc 130 ha, jardins de Le Nôtre, jardins anglais.
Jardins fermés le mardi. En train: depuis la Gare de Lyon (puis bus)